In a quiet coastal town in Kerala, generations of Orthodox Syrian Christians have observed a cherished tradition: after forty days of Lent, families come together to celebrate Easter. What better way to end the period of Lent, than a traditional breakfast of Appam and Stew? This meal is more than just food, it is a celebration of endurance, unity and the joy of renewal.
Long ago, when the community first settled in these lush lands, they adapted local ingredients and time-honoured cooking techniques to honour their fast-during Lent. As Easter approached, the long hours of preparation transformed into an opportunity for families to reconnect. In many homes, the kitchen would come alive with rhythmic stirring of a large clay pot, while fermented rice batter was carefully mixed and left to rise for the delicate, soft Appam.
Our story centers on a woman named Maria Ammachi, whose family had passed down the recipes through the ages. Every year, with impending monsoons just around the corner, Maria and her relatives would gather in the humble kitchen of their ancestral home. Together, they would prepare the stew—simmering tender pieces of mutton with local vegetables like carrots, potatoes and a hint of leafy greens, all slowly cooked with aromatic spices, coconut milk and a dash of ginger. The fragrant stew, rich yet simple, was a testament to Kerala’s abundant harvest and the culinary wisdom of those who came before.
The meal symbolized a return to life after the austerity of Lent. Neighbours, friends and extended family members would arrive at the home, each bringing their own small contribution, a handful of fresh herbs, a bit of salt or an extra dash of spice. The shared meal was a time of storytelling, laughter, and heartfelt gratitude. Maria learned that each spoonful of stew was a reminder of struggles endured during the fasting period and the promise of hope that Easter brought.
Families sitting down together for breakfast on Easter Sunday, before joining the rest of the local community at church, has always been a long standing tradition within the Orthodox Syrian community. The simple, hearty feast of Appam and Stew became a living celebration of resilience and togetherness. It was an honest, enduring legacy of a people who found strength in shared tradition and the simple act of preparing food with love.
Hearthkeeper’s Guide to Appam
Gathering Ingredients:
For Rice Batter:
- 2 cups parboiled rice (soaked for 4-6 hours or overnight)
- ½ cup grated coconut or coconut milk
- ½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds (optional)
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- ½ teaspoon salt
- Water (as needed for blending)
Method:
Soak and Blend:
Drain the rice and blend it together with grated coconut, fenugreek seeds, sugar, salt and enough water to create a smooth slightly thick batter.
Ferment:
Transfer the batter to a large bowl, cover loosely and leave it in a warm spot for 8-12 hours (or overnight) until it ferments slightly and develops a gentle tang.
Cook the Appam:
Heat a non-stick appachatti pan (or a small deep skillet) over medium heat. Pour about ¼ cup of batter into the center and immediately swirl the pan to spread the batter thinly along the sides while leaving a thicker center. Cover and cook for 2-3 minutes until the edges turn crisp and the center is soft and spongy. Repeat with the remaining batter.
Kerala Mutton Stew:
Gathering Ingredients (Serves 4-6):
Meat & Broth:
- 500g mutton (with bones), cut into chunks
- 3 cups water or mutton stock(or chicken stock)
Vegetables & Aromatics:
- 2 large onions, coarsely sliced
- 3-4 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 inch piece ginger, grated
- 2 tomatoes, chopped
- 2 green chillies, slit (optional, for mild heat)
- A few curry leaves
Spices:
- 2-3 whole cloves
- 2 cardamom pods
- 1 small cinnamon stick
- 1 bay leaf
- ½ teaspoon turmeric powder
- 1 teaspoon coriander powder
- Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Finishing:
- 1 cup coconut milk
- 2 tablespoons oil or ghee
- Fresh coriander(or cilantro) for garnish
Method:
Brown the Meat:
In a heavy bottomed pot or Dutch Oven, heat oil or ghee over medium-high heat. Sear the mutton pieces until they are browned on all sides, then remove and set aside.
Saute Aromatics:
In the same pot, add the onions, garlic and ginger. Saute until the onions become soft and golden.
Infuse the spices:
Add the whole spices (cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, bay leaf) and curry leaves. Saute briefly until the spices release their aroma. Then add the chopped tomatoes and green chillies and let them soften.
Simmer the Stew:
Return the mutton to the pot. Sprinkle in the turmeric, coriander powder, salt and pepper. Pour in the water or stock to cover the ingredients. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover and let cook for 1.5 to 2 hours until the mutton is tender and the flavours melt together.
Finish with Coconut Milk:
Stir in the coconut milk during the final 10 minutes of cooking. Adjust the seasoning if needed, and allow the stew to heart through gently.
Garnish and Serve:
Remove the bay leaf and whole spices. Ladle the stew into bowls and garnish with fresh chopped coriander. Serve with hot appam.
Hearthkeeper’s Secret:
“In every dish, the true magic lies not in the rare or mysterious, but in the simple act of sharing and caring. Stir with love, for even the humblest ingredients, when combined with the warmth of a community’s heart, transform into a feast that nourishes both body and soul”.
May the Kerala Appam and Mutton Stew, along with the Hearthkeeper’s Secret, remind you that every meal is a celebration of heritage, resilience and the joy of coming together. Enjoy the comforting flavours and the story behind each spoonful.
